A Tramping Christmas 2004

A weblog to reminisce about the Hiking New Zealand Secret South Safari during the Christmas holiday, 2004

28.1.05

One Moon Ago

As I watched the almost-full moon rise over Lake Michigan this evening, I was reminded of the view we had of the same moon one month before, rising over a different lake in a different hemisphere. The air is much colder here in Chicago tonight, but it is just as clear and the moon has the same orange glow as it rises just above the horizon.

It was actually Christmas night a month ago that we took these images along the shore of Lake Pukaki. Here is one of our campsite in the shelter of the pines near the south end of the lake.

Below is one of Jennifer's gorgeous wide-angle shots showing the light of the setting sun on Mt. Cook on the left and the moon rising on the right.
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The southwest edge of Lake Michigan is covered with jumbled piles of snow-covered ice today, floating in the frigid water. Thankfully, Lake Pukaki wasn't nearly so cold when we were there and took a dip in it.

27.1.05

Oh How We Love Lake Ohau

Christmas morning at Lake Ohau (pronounced "oh-how", in case you couldn't figure that out from the title of this post), through Jenny's eyes. Pardon my amateurish PhotoShop skills fixing up the missing parts of the sky on this one, and for not trying to eliminate the fence. Nice reflections, eh?
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This is the Ben Ohau range along the east side of Lake Ohau and Mt. Cook is very small in the distance on the left. Below is a view along the west side.
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Mt. Cook is just off the frame on the right. Again with the nice reflections, and the apologies for the amateurish PhotoShop work on the sky. This is actually a cropped version of the full panorama. The cropping was suggested by my friend, Tom, who really digs the trifurcatory lines and the symbolism, as it relates so well to the symbolic world of his own mind. Click here to see the full panorama.

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Hooker Glacier Pan

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So maybe this doesn't look like a panorama, but Jenny actually took 3 pictures vertically to get this one. Consequently it shows a much wider-angle view than she or I could have taken in a single frame with either of our cameras. The vista was so wide that no panorama can truly convey the drama of it.

The image shows Hooker Glacier below Mt. Cook on the far left and the large moraine dam and lake below it. The lake foms the river to the right that feeds into Lake Pukaki several kilometers to the south. The grayer water is where it is stirred up from the glacier feeding it under the dam and from the stream flowing in from the lake further above the dam. The turqouise areas are where the water is more calm and settled. The ice of the glacier is black from sediments further up the valley.

26.1.05

Lake Pukaki Pan 2

Here's Jenny's version of Lake Pukaki as the sun was going down on Christmas day.
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On the other side of the lake is the other side of the Ben Ohau range from the panorama below. Aoraki/Mt. Cook is in the distance right of center.

J-Lo's Panoramas

So, I know you're tired of seeing panoramas on this site so far, but I started putting some of Jenny's photos into panoramas and had to start posting them.
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The resolution and exposure of the full-size versions of these panoramas is much finer than the ones created from our camera. For instance the one above from our hike up into the basin above Freehold Creek shows fine detail in the rocks and clouds. This is the view to the east to Lake Ohau and the Ben Ohau range beyond.

I love the moodiness of this one from our walk on Surat Bay on the southeast coast.
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21.1.05

Jenny's Photos

We got CD's of Jenny's digital photos in the mail yesterday. Thank you, Jen, but I just have one thing to say to you: "Bite me." Your pictures are awesome! I'm just going to delete all of mine and use yours, OK? They are much more artisticly composed than mine. And that camera of yours (Nikon D70) seems to not only get the exposure right for everything and have the resolution to capture every detail even at great distances, but I could hardly believe when I saw that it could actually capture what the subjects were thinking:

The sheep is clearly wondering why there are three rare yellow-eyed penguins waddling through his pasture. Of course we knew why, thanks to the interpretations of our informative guide, Regan. Yellow-eyed penguins, who only nest in the southern parts of South Island, nest up to two kilometers from the ocean. These three are on their way in to feed their spouses and offspring following a full day of feeding in the ocean. Shortly after this picture was taken we could hear the screeching cries of their spouses and offspring calling them to their nests in the bush. As you can see, yellow-eyed penguins are quite large, attaining lengths of 24-28 inches, one of the largest species of penguins.

11.1.05

Borland pan

This panorama isn't quite as interesting as the others.
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It's a vertical panorama overlooking the river we hiked along near Borland Lodge. If anyone knows the name of the river or the trail we were on, please offer your comments.

This was day 3 of our adventure, after we had spent the night at Borland Lodge. We had prepared to hike up to Green Lake that night for an overnight stay in the hut, but Regan decided to cancel it due to worsening weather. As can be seen from the image, it was a heavy overcast not far above us.

But this little substitute hike was nice, just 2 hours pretty much all downhill as I recall. Except for Jenny who opted for an endurance run up the hill and back down and then around the nature trail at the end a couple of times. I got tired just thinking about that. Cheers to Jen for being in such good shape!

10.1.05

Freehold Creek pan 2

It's been almost 2 weeks since the end of our tramping tour and my knees are almost back to normal. I can actually climb and descend the 6 flights of stairs at work now without wincing in pain.

Here is the other panorama above Freehold Creek, taken on our way down. This one was actually taken a bit higher up, from the center of the basin, and covers a wider angle of view.Click on the image to view a larger version.  Use your browser's back button to return here.(Click on the image to view a larger version. Use your browser's back button to return here.)

If anyone has any more info on the name of this basin or the peaks and ridges around it, please let me know via email or by adding a comment here.

9.1.05

Freehold Creek pan 1

This panorama is looking up into the basin that we hiked up into above Freehold Creek along the west side of Lake Ohau, on Christmas Eve.Click on the image to view a larger version.  Use your browser's back button to return here.(Click on the image to view a larger version. Use your browser's back button to return here.)

Eight of us hiked up to the smoother saddle on the left of center, which was at an elevation of about 1800 meters. We then hiked down a bit and over to the saddle to the right of center to get a view down to Lake Ohau. This panorama was taken on the way up, and I have another that I took on the way down, but I can't decide which I like better. Neither is terribly impressive compared to the Mount Cook, Key Summit or Mount Somers pans, but I really enjoyed this hike and the views, as did the others, I think.

8.1.05

Key Summit pan

Here's another panorama to keep things going until I get all the individual photos prepared. This 360+ degree view is from the first day of the safari, near Key Summit along the Routeburn Track, just on the edge of Fiordland National Park at the upper end of the Hollyford Valley.Click on the image to view a larger version.  Use your browser's back button to return here.(Click on the image to view a larger version. Use your browser's back button to return here.)

The view down the Hollyford Valley is at center with the Humboldt Mountains on the right, and the Alisa Mountains on the far right. Just to the left of the Hollyford Valley, above the tarn (small alpine lake), is the upper end of the Darran Mountains. What appears to be a valley there is actually a cirque and hanging valley containing Lake Marian, and the peak on the left side of it with a small cloud blowing off the top of it is Mount Christina (2502 m). To the left of Mount Christina is the Valley that leads to the Homer Tunnel and Milford Sound, where we would go the following morning. We were very fortunate to have such a fine view--more on that later.

The whole group made the hike up to where I took the picture, but are not all visible in the image. Most noticeable are Jenny, one of the other shutterbugs in the group, in the center of the image looking like a pro as she shoots back towards me, and Astrid and Anna on the right (and left).

7.1.05

Panorama info

If you're interested, here is some technical information about the panoramas I'm publishing here. The larger versions of the panoramas here are all 768 pixels high by whatever width, which makes the file size up to one megabyte, though the Lake Pukaki pan below is only about 225 kB. If Internet Explorer shrinks the large image down to fit in your browser window but you want to see it full size, hold your mouse pointer on the image (without clicking) and then click on the "Expand to regular size" icon that appears at the lower right corner of the image. Then it will be displayed at its full resolution and you will need to scroll left and right or up and down to view the entire image.

I recommend the freeware program (for Windows operating systems) Wpanorama for viewing panoramas or using panoramas as a screensaver. Wpanorama displays panoramic pictures by automatically scrolling them horizontally or vertically on the screen, and it is easy to install and use. You can download the panorama images from here by right-clicking on the thumbnail image or the link to the larger image and clicking on the "Save Target As..." option, or right-clicking on the larger image and clicking on the "Save Picture As..." option, and saving it to a location on your hard drive to which you can then point the Wpanorama program. Or you can download any of 240 panorama images from the Wpanorama website.

To create our panoramas, I use either the Canon PhotoStitch program that came with our Canon PowerShot S330 Digital Elph camera (with which all these panoramas were imaged), or the Panorama Factory shareware program from Smoky City Design. There are many other programs available on the Internet as well.

6.1.05

Mount Somers summit pan

I promised Jenny I would post this panorama so she could see the lousy weather she missed out on the day after she left. The small image below is barely visible because the panorama is so wide--26 frames total covering over 270 degrees of view.
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Click here for a larger version with annotations of what the main features in the panorama are. The Rangitata River Valley is noted for Lord Of The Rings fans, because that is where the set for Edoras was built on Mount Sunday, a hill down in the valley. From our vantage point, we could just glimpse the plains of Rohan.

5.1.05

The Reasons

This is the poem mounted on the wall in the historic sheep musterer's hut we stayed in at Woolshed Creek near Mount Somers.  It seemed very appropriate for our tramping experience because it reflected so many of the reasons we were there:
 
The Reasons
 
It is not fame or fortune, that makes men muster sheep,
On broken rugged hillsides, and ranges rough and steep;
It is not love of comfort, or the working of short hours,
That makes them tread the mountains, mid the pure fresh alpine flowers.
 
It's the frosty early mornings, as dawn breaks clear and bright,
And the mists rise from the valleys as the day takes o'er the night;
It's the climbing out with gang of mates to reach your beats on high,
The kea soaring on the wing in the slowly lightening sky.
It's the feel you get when top is reached and the whole world's stretched below;
A maze of peaks and ridges, bright red in the sunrise glow.
 
It's the stirring sight of stringing sheep as they move for the day's first noise,
But it never pays to take them cheap, for they're full of many ploys;
It's the pride you feel when your heading dog hooks a mob a mile away,
Though he's cast on running shingle and his pads have bled all day;
It's the satisfaction at days end when the last sheep's through the gate,
And with weary tread you head to camp for the evening's getting late.
 
It's the smell of wood smoke rising from the hut tucked in the lee,
Of the towering bluff bound massif clothed with bush and shingle scree;
It's the swinging billy boiling as the packy makes a brew,
And the dixie on the fireside full of simmering mutton stew;
It's the old camp oven sitting in the embers glowing red,
And the smells that issue from it from the slowly rising bread.
 
It's the yarning in the sacking bunks and the smell of candle wax,
The rolling of the day's last smoke, the whinnies from the hacks;
The hobble chains a clinking as they head down to the creek,
And the morepork in the birch trees tells the world it's time to sleep.
 
--Jim Morris

Lake Pukaki panorama

Here is a panorama from near our campsite on the southern shore of Lake Pukaki, mentioned in my first post.
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The Ben Ohau range is directly across the lake on the left, and Mount Cook is in the distance at the far end of the lake at the center of the image. The water of the lake is the bright, light turquoise-blue of glacial run-off that is difficult to capture in an image. We were blessed with a beautiful sunset and simultaneous near-full moonrise later in the evening (pictures to follow).

An Explanation

In New Zealand, hiking or backpacking is known as "tramping." Kiwis don't "hike" on "trails" as we do in the US, they "tramp" on "tracks." To make the most of our experience of the scenic South Island during our brief time in New Zealand, my wife, Claudia, and I signed up for a "tramping safari" with Hiking New Zealand. We chose the Secret South Safari because it would take us into areas that we most wanted to see, and it fit our schedule over the Christmas holiday. Of course December is early summer for New Zealand, so even on the cooler southern South Island it would be a welcome change from the harsh winter of December at home in Chicago.

Despite unseasonably cold and wet weather in the weeks preceding it, we were very fortunate to have abundant sunshine on most of our safari. It exceeded our expectations for content, enjoyment, cost-effectiveness (there was kitty money left over at the end even with 2 big Christmas meals, though those who wanted to added additional money for wine and beer) and camaraderie, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

For some pictures from previous Hiking New Zealand safaris, check out their links to other tramper's web pages.

FYI, the time stamps on the posts are set to Greenwich/UTC/Zulu time for the benefit of the majority of the participants who are from Europe, and are in 24-hour clock format. Dates are "day.month.year" to follow European conventions also. The local time here in Chicago when I post is actually 6 hours before the time indicated on the posts. New Zealand is 19 hours ahead of Chicago, and 13 hours ahead of the Greenwich/UTC/Zulu time. Hence by being in New Zealand we were some of the first people on the planet to celebrate Christmas!

4.1.05

Too Much Fun

It could take forever for me to create a real website about our New Zealand trip, so I decided to create a weblog because it's so much easier to post stuff as it comes to mind, and allows everyone else on the tramping tour to contribute online. I hope others will contribute their comments, memories and images. Maybe after there's some content I actually will create a web page, but knowing what a lethargic slug I am, that will probably never happen. I haven't got all our pictures organized yet, so here's a panorama to start it off.
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This panorama was taken from the Sealy Tarns on the trail up to the Mueller Hut, on Christmas Day. Can you imagine a better way to spend Christmas Day?! From the floor of the valley, this trail rises 500 meters in 500 meters of horizontal distance. I'm so glad we weren't carrying packs, because it was hard enough for my knees as it was!

The peak in the distance is Aoraki/Mount Cook with Hooker Glacier below it. To the left is the Mount Sefton ice fall where we heard several avalanches and saw one or two also. To the right is the valley leading out to the northern end of Lake Pukaki. That night we camped near the south shore of Lake Pukaki, with a fabulous view north across the turquoise-blue lake to Mount Cook.

Eight of us took this day hike, and you can see the rest of the group to the right, including Jenny taking a picture of Regan so it looks like he's sitting on top of Mount Cook. Regan was our guide extraordinaire, and he said only about 1 in every 10 trips there does he get to see the top of Mount Cook, so we were very fortunate to have such a fabulous view.

Feel free to add your comments to any posts here, and if you want to join the weblog to make your own posts, just let me know and I will send you an invitation to join. You can email me using this page.